Day 13 - Fetterosso Forest to Dunnottar Castle

Well, today began at 6am once we awoke - the tent was quiet but the skies looked grim. The rain started within about ten minutes. Anyone who backpacks knows packing up while it is raining is never fun. The bonus - even if all our stuff got wet, we would be finished today and could dry it all out!

We hit the trail at 7:30am. We decided to trek out of the forest as per our original route and hit the roads. Road walking is tough but we knew we wouldn’t waste time navigating either. We saw a forestry truck on the way out and the driver gave us a new route straight to Stonehaven- very helpful. We were also back to cell service and google maps could help today too. We had about 22km today to finish. We expected showers on and off but we were truly exposed to the Scottish weather. We kept going but both said we have been so lucky, thirteen days with rain would have been unbearable!

We were about 5km from the Castle when we were popped into an area called Kirktown. Our first vision was a store whose sign read : Kir town garden centre and restaurant! It was literally a sign! Kitty corner to the building was Kirktown veterinary services. We decided to fuel up and warm up and dry out before our final push. Lunch was amazing and our feet could recover.

We continued towards the castle. It is truly stunning as you approach the castle. The jagged coast line with high cliffs that you picture. It was a trek in to the castle but we made it.

Once we arrived, as per TGOC custom, we walked down to the water to dip our feet into the coastal waters. The difficult part would end up being the climb back out from the castle!!! Our bodies were done and telling us to stop.

We contemplated waiting for a bus but since we would have to WALK to the bus stop, we called a taxi. He delivered us directly to our B and B. We are cleaning up and doing laundry- pure luxury.

Kir and I have discussed our favourite parts of the trip. We have seen such beautiful scenery and met so many wonderful people. We both loved Glen Tilt and Glen Lee. The trek from Braemar to Gelder Sheil is our least favourite part. We have used everything, all the gear we packed. We also had just two cup of soups left from our food stores - good planning.

Our bodies and feet will now get to recover fully. It is hard to believe we have finished. Our total kilometres were about 320km with some turn around and re-routes. This country is beautiful and my trekking partner is amazing! It is a great accomplishment to share with a special person.

PS our closest restaurant for dinner is three miles away, if we can’t order in, cup of soup it is!!!

We will spend a few days touring but can’t wait to see everyone at home. Love you all and thanks for reading!!! Xoxo

Amanda and Kir


UPDATE: After some showering, napping, and laundry we decided to head out for a small celebration.  We are back now after a delicious meal and celebratory cider!!

Day 12 - Tarfside to Fetterosso Forest

We knew we would had two long days to finish our route since we have altered our plans slightly. We decided towards the end of our route to head farther through the forest and reduce the amount of road walking. By doing this we will make Dunnator Castle on Wednesday and then head to our booked B&B.

We started out at 7:15 am, in the rain. We cannot complain as it truly hasn’t rained too much for our trip. On Monday night, while sleeping cozily inside, it rained all night. This created swollen rivers overnight which meant about five river crossing for us. The first crossing we removed our boots and socks and waxed across. The rest we managed as best we could to cross through shallow rocks and jumping, needless to say, once we stopped for lunch we switched to dry socks. We ate at Char bothy- a bonus to have shelter to eat. We met up with Steve from Aberdeen, this is his second crossing, his first was 35 years ago. We had a great day walking all the way to inside the forest’s edge where we are camping.

We had a cell signal for a few minutes as we passed below the wind farm. We quickly chatted to Jm and Ken and sent Ben a birthday text. 

We were zonked today as it was about a 30km day. Once we had survived an earlier shower we were treated to a few more hours of rain. We set up the tent and beds and made dinner and jumped into the tent at 7pm, I think Kir was asleep instantly, I wish I had her superpower of falling asleep in 5 nanoseconds in the tent! I have gained access to The Wrong Highlander novel so I was awake a bit longer. At 11pm the rain has stopped, a quick washroom break and we are back to bed.

It is hard to believe we are on the eve of finishing! We are excited but sad too. Stay tuned for pictures of the finish!!! Thanks for reading. Nighty night

Day 11 - Stables of Lee to Tarfside

Today was another early morning rise. Early to bed, early to rise!! Tim slept in the stable as his tent pole is compromised. He has a bivy sack around his sleeping mat and sleeping bag, slept like a baby.

It rained a bit in the night, the tent was put away wet- yuck.

We walked to Tarfside with Douglas and Tim. It was beautiful through the Glen of Lee.

We had a tiny bit of road walking then were back on trail into Tarfside. At the hostel here the volunteers were cooking like mad to have snack and meals prepared. We had coffee and bacon rolls. We were conflicted if we should knock off some route this afternoon since we arrived so early. Sam and James from Devon are heading our way tomorrow- we could hitch a ride with them. It will make for two long days but we decided to stay the night here and head out tomorrow. We will aim for two longer days and end at Dunnotar Castle Wednesday. We will then bus down to our B and B and head to Montrose on Thursday!

We also snagged a room at the hostel tonight!! Bunk beds for Kir and I. We got to shower and refresh before the next two trekking days. It is hard to believe we are this far in already!!

Apparently the forest can offer many false trails and it is quite easy to get turned around. There is a short bit of heather whacking tomorrow- insert groan here, but it should be our last!

Kir is showering right now, I will be next. A great refresh for the last haul.

Day 10 - Gelder Shiel to Stables of Lee

Our morning started about 6am when we all awoke. We were on the trail at 7am. It was toasty warm in the bothy for sleeping.

We were on our way to Shielin of Mark bothy today but we knew we would end up going further. We did stop and have lunch in the bothy.

It was still a short day - great for resting up the body. The scenery and weather made this hike seem quintessentially Scottish. The cloud started to move off as we reached the peak of our hike. We had a 360 degree view taking in Loch Nagar and around. It was amazing.

We had a lot of off track hiking in peat hags and heather. Please note: we still hate heather, it is the devil’s plant.

We were very lucky for the dry Spring here as it made our pass through the hags easier than usual. I had one step directly into a crevice - another slapstick moment as I hit the ground and couldn’t move. Pete ( who we hiked with all day) and Kir had to rescue me.

Our descent to the track was tough on the knees but we made it to the Stables of Lee. OS Locate App has truly been a lifesaver. We are camped out with Pete, Tim, and Douglas tonight- our bothy mates. We all struggle to make it until 8pm- a legit bedtime. Tomorrow will likely be an early start into Tarfside. We can pick up some scones and real food- yum. We will probably camp farther than Tarfside to shorten our coming days. Can’t believe we are in the homestretch.

Wildlife today:
Grouse and nest of 8 eggs
Hare
Frog

PS JM, we can here the stream tonight!

Nighty night

Day 9 - Braemar to Gelder Shiel

Today we had a late start to the walking. We slept in at the B and B with a scheduled breakfast at 8:30am. It was a delicious Scottish breakfast with all the fixings!!! Craiglee B and B a great place to refresh.

We were off at 10am in the rain!!! Not bad rain: for two hours on Day 1 and rain for hiking in Day 9. Our jackets and kilts worked very well. 

Today’s hike took us through many different forests. Probably the worst day of navigation - many more meters of elevation covered than was planned. 

We re-routed a few times but made it back onto our route. Our stopping point tonight was Gelder Shiel Bothy.

By the time we arrived the hut was full of characters. Pete was here for the night and Marcus too - he opted to set up his tent. Tim from Wales and Douglas the Scotsman had their bunk picked out. Kir and I picked two bunks and sat down. 

The bothy has a wooden stove and we sparked that up to take the chill off. The temperature has been at about +40C since!! Many others have arrived and opted to set up tents. We have chatted all evening all the while checking to see if it has reached 8pm - an acceptable time to go to sleep! Our dinner was fresh buns with salami and cheese.

We discussed many things from cultural ideas and laughs, drinks, and routes. It was truly a blast with these gents.

Kirsten and I will have to sleep armed as we know Douglas the Viking sleepwalks and we don’t want our challenge to end early.

Pete is quietly watching Netflix trying to wind down. Tim is rummaging around in what has to constitute two rucksacks worth of gear!! He is hoping for a bedtime excerpt from Kirsten’s novel but so far she has yet to agree to read aloud for us all!!

We will probably walk together tomorrow as we are heading in the same direction.

These bothies are fantastic! We are hoping to catch a whisper of our trail names- as assigned by Tim and Douglas, apparently they are top secret but we have our fingers crossed we may figure them out!!!

We are also anticipating the Thursday evening party and some pink gin drinks (thinking of you Jenni!)

Off to read for a bit then some shut eye. Can’t wait for tomorrow’s adventures!!!

Nighty night

P.S. Best gear so far, by a mile OS Maps Locate app!!!

Day 8 - White Bridge to Braemar

Started early this morning- awoke to another chilly one. At 12:30 am last night there was ice on the tent and a water bottle had started to freeze. In the morning it was overcast- really the first time we haven’t seen the sun since day one. It was cool to hike- long sleeves or coats. William from Barbados was awake with us and the three of us set out at 7:45am. The first stop would be Mar lodge for tea and biscuits. We arrived at 10am to Mar lodge- half our distance covered. Pete from York had slept at White Bridge and joined us for the last stretch to Mar Lodge. The lodge hosts the social tea and coffee for all TGOCers and it is a great meeting spot.

With 8km left we set out for Braemar. It is road walking from here but some wonderful views. The sun was already out, clouds all gone.

As one arrives to the limits of Braemar there are encouraging signs from Gordon’s Tea House- a must stop! We pulled in about noon, had some cappuccinos and lunch, and enjoyed sitting in chairs upright! 

After lunch we parted with William as he was headed to the campsite and us to our B and B. We hit the grocery store and Mountain shop to re-stock our food supplies for the next four days wild camping. A trip to the pharmacy was included for a few medical supplies. 

We did a bit of washing and rested until we met William at the Fife Arms Hotel for dinner. He has been an excellent hiking companion with many rich stories and fun laughs. We hope to see him in Montrose. 

Upon checking in with headquarters, we were delighted to have been left a message from Kevin- our day 1 hiking partner. He let us know he was finished his crossing (insert gasp here) and wished us safe travels for the rest of our journey. Truly an amazing feat!!!

We are reading in our cozy beds for a bit before we awake for our 8:30am breakfast. We ordered packed lunches for the trail. The forecast is calling for rain tomorrow until 2pm and then overcast, dry days to follow. Fingers crossed. 

 
There will be little chance of contact for four days but will update when we can! 

 
Amanda and Kir

Day 7 - Blair Atholl to White Bridge

Today was epic walking. We set out early with William from Barbados. We left camp at 7:30am. Chris and Sue were already gone, also on their way up Glen Tilt. Kirsten and I were looking forward to Glen Tilt as the boys had been down this trail a few weeks ago and said it was stunning. It didn’t disappoint.

Kirsten and William Taking a Break

We caught up to Chris and Sue (this is their tenth TGOC). We took a quick water break and they were off. We kept a pretty quick pace, passed JM, Ben and Zach’s camping spot. We saw a group of dog trainers with lab puppies. So cute. We also saw two stag herds up on the steep terrain.

We kept on trekking heading for the Falls of Tarf. When we rounded the corner there were about 20 people- various hiking groups and Chris and Sue were there too. Sue gave me some KT tape for my leg- has helped keep the swelling down. Just before Sue left she found a big bag of hard candies! Yum. They helped us all.

Bridge at the Falls of Tarf

Soon enough the five of us were all walking together. It was nice to chat and walk. As the day progressed we knew with the great weather we would aim for a bit farther. We passed Geldie Burn- the site of meeting the Scotland gang.

Kirsten, Chris, and Sue Just Before Geldie Burn

We trekked onwards to White Bridge. We finished walking at 5:15pm and covered at least 30km. It was an epic day of walking-must have been the delicious treats from Joyce and Anne for sure!!

Mandy Not Wasting One Crumb of Joyce and Anne's Delicious Treats!

Please note, after convincing everyone that there is a Loch Tilt, it is never visible from the trail! Dang it.

It was windy all day and is still blowing. It is 7:58pm and we are tucked into our bags. Our day tomorrow is only 16km now with a B and B as well- whohoooo.

Time re-stock in Braemar.

To the UK gang, please rest assured although JM is not here, Kirsten and I have been eating well and our dishes are clean!!! 😝😝😝

Off to grab some zzz’s more tales to follow soon. Xo