Day 6 - Loch Tummel to Blair Atholl

Today was a leisurely stroll through the countryside. We awoke warm and rested. The Inn is amazing. Our meal last evening was delicious and this morning’s breakfast was unbelievable.

Our route today was a mere 12.5km. We were on trail all day- glorious. 

We video chatted with Ken on a hilltop so he could have a peek. We weren’t certain anyone else would answer at 5:30 am. 

It was another hot one but the breeze helped. We passed a small lake that is stocked by the local angler’s club: Loch Bhac stocked Loch. There was a lone fly fisherman and his dog and rises everywhere!

As we approach Blair Athol we had a great view of Blair Castle.

We found our campground no problem and started our laundry. Showers were next.
As we approach Braemar we are seeing more and more TGOCers.  William is here too.

With William from Barbados (On 5th Crossing!!)

We met Joyce and Anne for dinner at The Bothy Bar. William joined us. It was a treat to have such a special visit. Just three weeks ago these amazing sisters met JM, Ben and Zach on their journey. We got some special treats for the route- they will keep going for sure. Can’t wait to see Martin and Moira after the walk too, get the whole gang together. 

With Joyce

With Anne

The campsite is quite large but the tent sites seem to be situated beside Scotland’s largest bird sanctuary! The symphony has been non-stop since we arrived seven hours ago. Luckily Kirsten brought earplugs for us both. Something just happened- the birds have taken off but must be battling. This is crazy!! We have never heard anything like this.
We are walking Glen Tilt tomorrow, lots of elevation and beauty to come. Stay tuned.
Amanda and Kir

We saw our first bear today!!

Day 5 - Rannoch Forest to The Inn at Loch Tummel

The Campground was luxurious, because we had flush toilets! We awoke for our trek and were on the road at 8:40 am. The night proved chilly again- luckily tonight we are at our first hotel!!

Carol was right, the bird symphony began about 3:30 am!

Our first bit of road walking took us into Innerhadden village. We purchased food and re-supply medical gear. We both had a Coke- sugar and caffeine and cold!

We continued towards Crossmount cottages to pick up a trail leading past MacGregor’s Cave. The cottage keeper laughed when we told him we were headed to the Inn at Loch Tummel. He thought we were kidding and explained the grass seed he was just planting would be a foot and a half high by the time we arrived!!

We found the trail and saw the cave where the MacGregor clan hid while on the run many years ago.

The next part of our planned off route section proved to be quite challenging. The map definitely needs updating! After trodding through wet Heather we managed to find our way out. At the new junction- the cottage keeper explained our bridge had been gone since 2000. We arrived at a sign explaining the road was impassable to pedestrians. We didn’t even hesitate but continued forward. Going back may literally have killed us. Please note: if Kirsten and I were married, we might not have been after this section!

We walked along the aqueduct into Tummel Bridge. We have had horrible cell coverage most everywhere but in the midst of this forest section we were able to call Ken and JM using Whatsapp!

As we crossed the literal Tummel Bridge we had a fly by from two very low military jets (F16’s?). Pretty incredible.

We still had 10km of road to go. Please note, it isn’t usually 24C in May in Scotland!!! Crazy heat.

We slugged into our Inn at 5:45 pm. We have showered and eaten at the restaurant. So amazing. Loch Tummel is stunning. Hopefully we can appreciate this after sleeping in our bed!!!

Breakfast tomorrow and a short 12km to Blair Athol. We can’t wait to see Joyce!!

Status update- 133km finished

Favourite Gear
Kirsten- Vitamin I (ibuprofen)
Amanda - my newly acquired heat rub

Stay tuned for more Tales from the Isle. Our rhubarb crumble is about to arrive...

Day 4 - Pubil to Rannoch Forest Campground

We awoke this morning to a much warmer tent! We were toasty throughout the night, helping us sleep more soundly. We packed up while the audience of local sheep watched.

Started trekking, along the road at 8:45 am. We were headed for the Tearoom at Bridge of Balgie. The walk was full of sheep and beautiful quintessential Scottish scenery. We spotted a freshly birthed lamb this morning. The sun was blazing and both of our right sides are tanned- agggg. We used zinc oxide for sunscreen but bought some new sunscreen at the Tearoom.

We arrived at the Tearoom (also the Post Office) at 12:15pm. Here we sat in the shade and feasted on their delicious cuisine. Kirsten opted for carrot cake for dessert (in honour of JM and TT) and I had scones with jam and cream- again! We rested our weary feet and bodies for two hours. Scott passed by on his way to Blair Athol.

After our rest we began the ascent to cross to our next stop. A couple from Vancouver Island- Karen and Jamie (mountain bikers we met at the Tea Room) caught up to us and walked along side for about 5km! They are an amazing team travelling the globe. They are in Scotland for two months.

Kirsten and I opted to re-route in order to avoid a portion of tomorrow’s day that is off trail. We are at the campground in Rannoch Forrest. We saw another hiker arrive with TGOC gait. It was William from the Barbados. We met him in Taynuilt, this is his fifth crossing. Carol chatted us up, she has hung up her TGOC boots after eight crossings. We didn’t plan this distance today but we are quickly learning a few important lessons.

• When you plan to wild camp, a flat spot does not reveal itself until you are a minimum of 5km past the destination.
• Most planned wild camp spots are beside 200m cliffs.
• Most planned access drinking water, also 100m below.
• Hiking in Scotland does in fact require sunscreen.
• The right Highlander does exist and was spotted earlier at the Tearoom.
• Mother sheep quickly abandon their lambs when the food quad arrives.

We are tucked into bags with running water and toilets close by. Paradise.

Amanda and Kir

Day 3 - Victoria Bridge to Pubil

NOTE: Pictures to follow.


Today we slept in!!! The night was terribly cold but we broke open the heat wraps for our backs and lined our bags with our silk liners. I had my puffer coat on and Kirsten kept hers on after the 5:00 am pee break. Once the sun hit our tent the air warmed and we slept better than ever. The late start meant we didn’t hit the trail until 9:45 am. This makes for a strange day if you hike onward as it is pretty late when you finish. We were ahead of our days by about 5km to start, if we kept our planned destination we would walk 22km. The first part of the trail was rocky track until Gorton Mountain Bothy. We stopped here for lunch about 2:00 pm. At 3:10 we were back at it.

There was a quick pick up of our trail that lead us through a tunnel under the train tracks.

We followed the trail- it became boggy and wet as we walked. The upcoming route finding was our first non-trail section. It ended up being all boggy marsh and peat dotted with heather, a very treacherous cross for a non-Highlander. We managed the 7km workout fairly well. With about a 1/4 left I stepped forward but my foot extended- instant shin splint pain. Hoping it heals with Kirsten’s Voltaren.

Kirsten’s blister family has grown nicely with extended cousins and aunts and uncles joining the party. Hint: buy stock in Elastoplast and Band-Aid- right now!

The crazy bog walking was beyond worth it- this Glen was beautiful beyond words.

We bushwhacked back to trail and walked beside Loch Lyon. The trail was softer than before- a nice treat. As we can upon a flat area to camp we met up with Scott- a Scotsman we had met previously. We decided- in error - to push further along for a bit to take km off our other days. At this point you may have guessed, water sources became scarce along with flat plots for camping! We ended up hiking passed the huge dam and into Pubil- we are trying to decide what kind of place this is- not a town, not a village, very bizarre. We are at least 7km ahead of our route.

After we manically put the tent up and cooked we are getting ready for the chilly night ahead.

Our trek tomorrow takes us past a cafe- great motivation.

Signing off for now. Hoping to sleep tight. Nighty night!

Amanda and Kir

Day 2 - Inverliver to Victoria Bridge

We awoke early this morning- about six a.m. Kirsten slept well but as soon as we set about to sleep I felt like I was on home time zone- aggg.  I may have squeezed out 4-5h at best. We awoke to a chilly morning. Last night was down to -2C!  There were ice crystals on the tent fly.  We packed up our wet gear and set out.

It was trail today - no more road.  It felt soft to begin but was a pretty tough go.  We walked through a Glen all day- basically a valley between continuous mountains.

We had forested trails to begin and open sky towards the end, where Lochs (lakes) peppered the land. We aimed for Victoria bridge knowing there is a pub to visit and a washroom.
We passed Kinglass Lodge and crossed the river to take a peak.  There was a family there for the weekend.  Their Scottish hospitality extended an invite for tea or coffee.  The lodge itself is used by the deer stocker, his job is to control the deer population in the valley.  Last night they had a herd of 80 visit.  We met Billie, Ayla, Rudy, Cash, Stewart and Billie’s sister and her husband. We had a Rice Krispie treat  and after about an hour were sent on our way with a banana, two clementines and a cup of noodles, each.  This was super kind, but somehow our packs are getting heavier not lighter!  We rectified this by eating our treats.
We stopped for lunch shortly after, taking another break for our feet.

We continued towards Loch Dochard and decided we would continue if feeling well.  Sometimes this makes 3km feel like 10km!  Seeing as we had no rain and sun with some clouds, we considered this a sign and kept moving.We saw Tony and Lee a few times today and passed their camp as we continued to Victoria bridge.

Here the trail takes a quick stint into the forest.  As I stepped into a boggy patch, I quickly ate the grass in front of me. My right leg sunk up to my knee and I hit the grassy hill in front. My 45lb backpack said boom,nope you are not getting up.  My fear of ticks had me writhing to gain traction and get out.  At least this served as great comic relief for Kirsten.
We made it to the bridge and were distressed that the pub was about 1km further off our route. We persisted, mostly for the washroom and made it!  Sadly we didn’t have any pints- just a Coke (delicious) and worth the walk.
We are tucked into our tent, with cell service- lol. Tomorrow we head to Loch Lyon and set up camp again.
Hoping we both sleep well.  Nighty night.

Favourite Candy
Kirsten: sour gummies, licorice
Amanda: sour gummies, sweet tarts

Best Gear So Far
Kirsten: Advil 12h and Tylenol Cold
Amanda: Salomon Hiking Boots

Pet Peeves
Kirsten: Peeing in the middle of the night and blisters
Amanda: Boggy marsh

Day 1 - Oban to Inverliver

May 10, 2019

Kirsten and I are sitting in our tent, applying sanitizer to our feet to dry them and rubbing them down with Penaten- also aiming to dry the skin overnight. The first day has been amazing!  Our day set out to be 26km but since our desired camping location, along the shores of Loch Etive would have required no movement in our camp beds to ensure we stayed perched upon a 3ft ledge with a 40ft drop, we hiked forward!  We are about 3.5 to 4 km further into our route, set up in a field with some sheep and horses for neighbours.
The first part of our morning was dry but the second part was wet.  We trekked into The Tea Room in Taynuilt and ordered hot soup and cappuccinos.  It was wonderfully warm, allowing us to dry out and meet some fellow TGOCers - a pair from Germany, followed by William.
During our morning trek we met a TGOCer from England - Kevin.  He coaches rugby for a living, played Hooker himself (Sammy) and he filled us in on some pretty great relations.  His son is married to Brett Farve’s daughter.  Pretty cool!  We couldn’t talk to him for too long as he was practically running- he is ex Army and an ultramarathoner.  40km today and in a few days one day with 3300m elevation!
After our tea room feast, where we enjoyed scones with clotted cream and jam for dessert,  we hit the trail for the last stretch.

Kirsten’s feet have taken a beating.  Being prone to blisters her whole life could not will away the return of blisters!  Our first day was almost all road- extremely hard on the body and was about 30km, an ambitious start.  We are hoping the healing is immediate with all the meds!
There are three other trekkers in our area for the night.
Tony- an Irishman who has been in England for 50 odd years, this is his 20th crossing! He wanted to ensure our route had scheduled pub stops along the way.  His hiking partner is a Brit named Lee, doing his 15th TGOC. Incredible.
Darren is also here- hails from England, we met him earlier today at Inverawe.

Prior to Inverawe we crossed a footbridge- I almost threw up- Ken you know what I am talking about brotha!  The angled sides were crazy and of course (as happened at Capilano) the bridge was swaying when I crossed!  Only pictures of Kir on this monstrosity.
Camp dinner took place on a beautiful dock.  We enjoyed broccoli and cheddar rice, Kung Pao Chicken, followed by Creme Brûlée and coffee.  Delish.  We are positive late night caffeine will not keep us awake tonight!

Favourite Things:
Kirsten- The Tea House
Amanda- Meeting fellow challengers

Biggest Challenge:
Kirsten- blisters
Amanda- Kirsten’s blisters (maybe Kirsten’s snoring)

We will read books for a bit.  I have a crime suspense from Audj and Kir is reading some classic Scottish Literature, also from Audj (see picture below).

Off for now.  Love to all.
Amanda and Kir

Oban!

We have arrived safely in Oban and have just sorted our gear! We met up with JM,Ben and Zach to swap gear in Fort William this afternoon. To say it was a short visit doesn't do it justice- we thought the 1 hr and 40 min we had allotted was cutting it tight to pick up the essentials we needed for our journey- instead we had to make do with 25 min! No panic here! Today was our second bus ride and I did much better with a few motion sickness tablets on board!

We've been enjoying the Scenery and the Scottish hospitality thus far and I am amazed to see so many like minded adventurers out and about. We spent some time ogling all the beautiful gear in shops- all the while trying to decide if we will have enough layers! It looks like we may beat those boys and have to sport some rain gear on day 1 and not day 12 should the weather forecast be accurate as we head out bright and early tomorrow.

Amanda is reviewing the maps and we are both tucked into bed ready for a good nights sleep- hopefully the melatonin will help!

Update: Shout out to Alan Crossley on his first crossing!  Shiel Bridge to Montrose.  Happy trekking!!


Above, one of the stunning views from the bus trip from Ft. William to Oban.


A picture here for my peeps in Kanata. I have enlarged the name of the building below.




The white building is our hotel for tonight: Muthu Best Wedtern Oban. We are a few doors up from our youth hostel check in point for the beginning of TGOC 2019!



The first of many sheep pictures we will post,